Emerald Harmony - Chanting Monks and Cambodian Nights
By Cruising With Honey - 14:04
Majestic Mekong - Day 2 on Emerald Harmony
A Monk's Blessing
One of the biggest privileges afforded by travel is being welcomed by a culture with the hope you’ll leave knowing just a little bit more about a community, a people, then when you arrived. This sharing of life is ultimately what the human experience is all about, and the reason we long to explore the world.
Day 2 aboard Emerald Harmony, and I had settled in to my cabin and the rhythm of this beautiful ship. The first excursion on his Majestic Mekong cruise was to Oudong, the former capital of Phnom Penh. The Emerald Harmony was ported at Prek Kdam, about a half hour coach trip, so it was an early start for the EmeraldPlus (included) shore excursion.
Arriving at the Vipassana Dhurak Buddhist Centre, I marvelled at the architecture in the grounds. We were asked to be mindful that this was a sanctuary where monks and nuns lived, and to dress modestly, covering our shoulders and knees. It was a steaming hot day, so a long cotton scarf did the trick.
As I entered the first temple, I was taken aback by the sheer size of the Buddha. Saffron clad monks prayed as I was walked on the cool marble floor, admiring the intricate artwork adoring the walls.
Our tour guide ushered us to sit in front of two monks, their serene faces instilled a stillness and peace. Quietly, the two men started chanting in and ancient language, only used by Buddhist monks. They took turns, sometimes overlapping in their hypnotic cadence in Pali, (the language of the Buddhist scripture and based on Sanskrit). As this blessing concluded, lotus petals were tossed over us and I’d like to think that with each petal that landed on my head, I was given an extra special blessing.
On we walked through the complex, stopping to snap pictures with nuns and monks, who all exuded a peaceful, fulfilled disposition. From a Western perspective, one might see poverty. I, however, saw contentment.
In an under covered area, food was being prepared. People were busy preparing meals for the monks and nuns who would arrive at midday to partake in their only meal of the day. If you were to look up the meaning of community, this would be the perfect illustration. The meals are provided by local Buddhists who come to the complex to show their gratitude and give their offerings.
A chime sounded, and on cue, a stream of monks and young student monks, filed in. It was a beautiful moment to witness as they walked calmly with their bowls to accept their gift of food. Watching the procession was a moment to reflect on gratitude and to understand that without this generosity, these monks would not eat.
I was not aware that in Buddhism, there are nuns as well as monks. These mostly elderly women live that live at the complex very simply, in small one-bedroom structures. It was confronting to see how they live, especially as many were so very old and frail. I wished they were in much more comfortable surroundings being looked after in their twilight years. However, it was blessing that these nuns did have shelter and food, as the majority had no-one, and this community was all the family they had.
My heart broke hearing the stories of them losing every member of their family to the Khmer Rouge. Parents, siblings, children; the Pol Pot regime was ruthless and committed an atrocious genocide in Cambodia in the 1970s. I suppose these nuns were just grateful to be alive. Material wealth pales in comparison to life.
Sailing On The Mekong
The beauty of an early start is having a long break back on board to recharge. Lunch, lounging and having some cool refreshments recharged the energy zapped by the heat and soon the Emerald Harmony was sailing way downstream. WE WERE CRUISING THE MEKONG.
After a few hours sailing – it was so tranquil – the ship arrived in Phnom Penh, just in time for the second included shore excursion of the day. Stepping off in the humid night air, a fleet of Remorques (similar to a Tuk Tuk but is a carriage that is attached to a motorbike whereas a Tuk Tuk is an auto-rickshaw) were lined up at the dock.
Jumping aboard with my bestie Nurse JoJo, the driver sped off, joining the cavalcade on an exhilarating ride through the hectic, chaotic night life of Phnom Penh. We giggled and laughed as we were jostled in the back of the carriage, waving at the people enjoying the bustling evening.
Back on board, the beautiful crew set up an open on the top deck. The service on Emerald Harmony is exceptional.
It had been a big day, and the comfort of sleeping in my beautiful cabin was very much welcomed. I needed my sleep as tomorrow we’d be heading to the Killing Fields, and I knew it would be a very confronting experience.
0 comments