Fijian Magical Moments - Mountains, Caves and Legends
By Cruising With Honey - 22:25
Day 3 aboard Captain Cook Cruises Fiji
I never pictured myself as the hiking-type-of girl, but standing at the summit of Mount Tamasua, I thought to myself that it could become a new hobby. Strike that, I fib, I was actually mentally screaming, “How the frikkity-frik am I going to get back down?” Any fleeting ideas of an off-shoot blog, ‘Hiking With Honey’ were immediately ruled out.
Despite being speared by a menacingly thorny bush and twisting my ankle, the hike was actually spectacular. I’m just not a good hiker – and was terribly grateful for the ever-patient and kind Jeffrey and Joseph who walked behind me every clumsy foot step up the mountain. Reality check: time to improve fitness in 2022.
When I reached the top, 763ft above sea level, I thought about the legend of Mount Tamasua. It involves a giant eagle, a fearsome young man, a virgin - and some bird droppings. I quietly giggled to myself imaging a massive winged-animal swooping towards me and then abruptly making a complete full stop. After taking a moment to catch my breath, I allowed my eyes to drink in the view. I had no words.
This, THIS was worth the 5:30am wake up, the uphill puff, the swollen ankle and the plant-induced injury. From this vantage point was a stunning 360 degree view of the Yasawa Group. The sun had just risen and the day was enticingly untouched, reborn as if solely for my delight. I could have happily stayed in this spot, spoilt by the beauty.
After descending the hill with the same grace and aplomb as my ascent, a quick breakfast was gobbled back on board, and soon I was heading out to the famous Blue Lagoon. For children of the 80s like me, the film of the same namesake, was a complete taboo. Images of a scantily-clad Brooke Shields and a blonde-ringletted Christopher Atkins swept into my mind. I chuckled. By today’s standards, the film was hardly risqué.
A slight drizzle had set in, and sadly, the Blue Lagoon looked green. The ‘beach’ we were dropped off at was only a few metres long due to the tide, but this wasn’t going to dampen our spirits. Even in the impending gloom, the lagoon evoked a sense of mystique.
The ever-smiling crew did their best to make the most of the situation, helping passengers use the selection of water toys. Aunty Gigi saw me eyeing a paddleboard and encouraged me to try it. “Well”, I thought to myself, “If ever there was a place to try balancing my unco-self on a floating device while my upper body managed a paddle, then this was the spot.”
And guess what? I did it! I paddle-boarded around in slow circles, chuffed with my coordination. Even an excited fish showed his approval by leaping out of the water and OVER my board. True story.
The rhythm of the rain increased, so it was time to try another spot to snorkel. This time I stayed close to Marine Biologist Amanda and had a wonderful time. I relaxed into the activity and marvelled at the unfolding watery soap opera. Secretly, I was conserving my energy for the what I hoped would be the highlight of the cruise; the Sawa-i-lau caves.
Sawi-i-lau Caves
Entering the caves, I was overcome with a reverence, a stillness. The air was cool and the ground slippery. As my eyes adjusted to the new light, I silenced my inner chatter. As I bowed my head under the overhanging rock, I slowly raised my eyes to capture my first glimpse.
A green, crystal-like shimmering pool appeared, still, deep and majestic. It told the stories – silently – of eons past. I inched my way closer, beckoned by the healing waters. I didn’t want to break the spell and yet yearned to immerse myself in the healing bath.
Slowly, I dipped my toes, slightly nervous as the bottom seemed galaxies deep. And then, my body was submerged and weightlessness took over. If I ever was going to have a transcendental experience, then this was it. I looked up and the limestone cave walls marked the passage of time. I could feel the stories emanating, pulsating, sharing the wisdom. I floated on my back to absorb the magic, recognising the immense privilege of being in this sacred water.
The passage of time in the Sawa-i-lau caves seemed to last an eternity and a mere moment. It’s hard to explain. But, this extraordinary experience, will inextricably be intertwined with ‘my Fiji’, the Fiji of my soul and heart.
Day 2 aboard Captain Cook Cruises Fiji
With the sun’s rays streaming through my cabin window, it suddenly dawned on me that we weren’t in Kansas anymore. But there was a Toto on board – not a canine stowaway – rather a pastry chef who weaved his culinary skills in the wee hours of the morning just so I could enjoy a chocolate croissant for breakfast. It was scrumptious. I had two.
It was Day 2 aboard the Reef Endeavour and the serenity of drinking in the sea was a salve for my soul. After being land-bound for what seemed like a lifetime, it felt indulgent. Here I was, a million light years away from the panic and heightened anxiety of the pandemic, feeling like a prison escapee. Pre-plague, cruising was something we could do at the drop of a hat. Was it guilt? Or maybe it was just that I felt unburdened for the first time in years? As I stared out into the blue beyond, I recognised exactly what the feeling was. Freedom. No worries, no fears and no stress. It felt so, so good.
Gigi (or as she will forever be known ‘Aunty Gigi’) saw my distress and instinctively knew what to do. She stroked my hair, patted my back and spoke indistinct soothing words. I started crying, with relief. (I told you I was a drama queen). And there I sat, in my wet swimmers, hair matted, and my head snuggled deep in the bosom of Aunty Gigi and allowed myself to be comforted like a baby. The boat zoomed back, and in those few minutes, I miraculously made a complete recovery. I’m convinced Fijians are born with this incredible gift of superhero-esq, next-level sense of empathy.
Following Aunty Gigi’s advice to shower and nap, I woke an hour later due for my massage. It was nearly sunset, and once again I craved to absorb every moment. I don’t have the words to describe the beauty, the words are yet to be invented.
I stayed a while on deck, surrounded by stillness and night. Breathing deeply, I laughed silently at my silly, self-concocted earlier drama, eager to re-tell my story to my teenage girls once I was back home, who would surely roll their eyes at their mum.
It was Day 2 aboard the Reef Endeavour and the serenity of drinking in the sea was a salve for my soul. After being land-bound for what seemed like a lifetime, it felt indulgent. Here I was, a million light years away from the panic and heightened anxiety of the pandemic, feeling like a prison escapee. Pre-plague, cruising was something we could do at the drop of a hat. Was it guilt? Or maybe it was just that I felt unburdened for the first time in years? As I stared out into the blue beyond, I recognised exactly what the feeling was. Freedom. No worries, no fears and no stress. It felt so, so good.
Before long, we were heading off to our first adventure, snorkelling followed by a morning at Brother’s Beach. The tendering process was super easy; each passenger who wanted to go on the trip would hand in their cabin key – this ensures the crew are aware who has left the ship. It’s a simple and effective process. Passengers then board the glass-bottomed boat (the tender) which is lowered into the water via a pretty cool forklift-type system.
Snorkelling in Fiji
Snorkelling is one of those activities where you’ve got to be pretty coordinated at breathing and swimming. I am not a coordinated person on land. I am also not a coordinated person in the water. I can manage to keep my chubby body afloat in the most ungraceful of manners. However, armed with my full-face snorkel mask, I psyched myself into believing I could a) breathe underwater and not drink 3 litres of salty liquid, b) not lose a contact lens c) be transformed into a beautiful mermaid with sublime swimming skills and the ability to converse with the sea-creatures.
We reached our snorkelling spot, and I watched all the brave passengers gleefully jump off into the almost artificially-blue water. I hesitated, transfixed by a teen fearlessly leaping off the top of the boat.
WATCH THIS Jump, jump video
“C’mon Honey, you can do it,” the Angel on my right shoulder encouraged. Buoyed by this, I inched to the side and handed my flippers to Amanda the Marine Biologist. Just before jumping in, the Devil on my left shoulder cackled, “Do you really know how to swim, cos it’s been a while… you’re going to sink like a stone…” However, his warning came too late, and milliseconds later, with cheeks puffed, I splashed with the elegance of a bowling ball and dropped into the ocean.
As my head bobbed up to the surface, I looked over to my left shoulder. The Devil was dripping wet, looking decidedly dejected. I flicked him off with a one quick movement and watched him sink, pitchfork raised in defiance.
With my over-active imagination now cooled, it was time to discover the wonders of the deep. Coral, sea cucumbers, star fish and marine life of every colour. The water was clear, warm and soothing, every second there was something new to behold.
The answer to life
It was here in Fiji that I had an epiphany; I watched sea creatures of every colour and size surrender to the current. There was no mad fight to swim against the force of the ocean, no hurry to ‘be’ at any specific place. Simply serenity. The answer to life lay in this underwater world – and as cliched as it might sound – the key is to go with the flow. I forgot about furiously treading water and breathing so violently my masked fogged up. Instead, I lightly held onto my foam noodle and just let go.
With smug satisfaction that I successfully snorkelled, the next stop was the idyllic Brother's Beach, so postcard-perfect it seemed lifted from a travel brochure.
Crew carried cool drinks to beach, smiling and laughing, their joy contagious.
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| I was here |
Back on board for lunch (and coconut crusted deep-fried bananas,) and treated to some soulful singing Watch this, Captain Ken pulled up anchor to take us to our next snorkelling spot. This time, with no fear, I cannon-balled in and set out to ‘go with the flow’.
The current was stronger, and I soon found myself separated from the others. I was never in any danger, and the crew had two boats keeping watch, but I started to panic. I hyperventilated, my stomach started churning and I really didn’t know if I could swim back to the boat. My saviours – Patrick and Joseph – saw me flailing about. Again, I was NEVER in any danger, but I am dramatic. In a heartbeat, they sped over to me (it was only about 3 meters) threw out a rope and hoisted me up. (Poor guys, I can assure you this was not a pretty sight).
Reunited with the others on the glass-bottomed boat, I was ready to hurl. I mean, who the heck gets sea-sick while snorkelling? Embarrassed and ready to lose the contents of my stomach (those coconut crusted deep-fried bananas I indulged in were soon going to be chum), a real angel appeared and enveloped me in her soft, motherly arms.
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| I love you Aunty Gigi |
Gigi (or as she will forever be known ‘Aunty Gigi’) saw my distress and instinctively knew what to do. She stroked my hair, patted my back and spoke indistinct soothing words. I started crying, with relief. (I told you I was a drama queen). And there I sat, in my wet swimmers, hair matted, and my head snuggled deep in the bosom of Aunty Gigi and allowed myself to be comforted like a baby. The boat zoomed back, and in those few minutes, I miraculously made a complete recovery. I’m convinced Fijians are born with this incredible gift of superhero-esq, next-level sense of empathy.
Tuli the masseuse’s magic hands erased the drama of the day, and when I emerged from my blissful cocoon, I was transfixed by the sky. Tuli stood alongside me, enjoying the same moment. We stood in silence, her sweet aura blended with the golden, tranquil ambiance.
I stayed a while on deck, surrounded by stillness and night. Breathing deeply, I laughed silently at my silly, self-concocted earlier drama, eager to re-tell my story to my teenage girls once I was back home, who would surely roll their eyes at their mum.
It was time for sleep, my relaxed body melting into the mattress, eyelids growing heavy, and the soft lap of the waves a gentle soundtrack for my dreams.