Welcome to Antarctica aboard Swan Hellenic
Imagine you had the most thrilling, exhilarating, best day of your life. Now imagine that you still have a week’s worth of this ‘best day of your life’ awaiting you. Can you picture it? Can you even fathom the enormity of the memories that will be imbedded in your mind, the stories that you’ll pass on and the utter magnificence of sights that will overload your senses?
Well, let me tell you my friends, this is what it is like to cruise in Antarctica with Swan Hellenic. I’ve had a lifetime’s worth of magical, almost indescribable experiences in 24 hours, which sounds unbelievable, but I’ll try to explain.
Icebergs ahead – First Sighting
As Swan Hellenic Vega slowly glided through the water, more icy structures appeared, each more splendid than the next. Then, suddenly an iceberg, a jagged floating mass the size of truck. I dared not close my eyes for fear of missing out on the ever-changing movie unfolding right before me.
The land masses became larger, more intricate in shape and colour. More icebergs floated by each indescribably different to the next. Sea ice appeared, first sparsely then more abundantly, creating the most intricate carpet on the glassy sea.
I was in pure and utter awe
Just when I couldn’t imagine seeing something else that could take my breath away, the next millisecond I was caught off guard once more, straining to absorb this view for fear of missing out.
For the next four hours I stood there, transfixed by the foreign, alien-like environment, turning every few moments to the passenger next to me, who like me was in bewilderment, to get confirmation that this was in indeed real.
For more photos, please visit HERE
Zodiac Launch and Antartica Exploration
When you’re in place as unpredictable as Antarctica, the scenery changes by the second. The weather can turn in an instant and the daily itinerary is very closely monitored to ensure the passengers are comfortable and have the best experience.
What I’m loving about Swan Hellenic is just how organised everything is on board. The passengers are split in two group – blue and red – to allow for a staggered and orderly loading into the zodiacs. The crew are extremely helpful, knowledgeable and super friendly.
Red group, my group, was announced, and it was time for me to head down to Base Camp on Deck 3. Yesterday, we were shown how to use our lifejackets, swapped parkers and boots if they weren’t the right size and generally be very well prepared. I layered up – three layers on top, one on bottom - pulled on my boots, strapped my lifejacket on and stepped aboard the zodiac a cruise.
The motor kicked in and soon was surrounded by sea ice. Our driver expertly navigated the sea, but there were a few bumps which had the passengers squealing with excitement. Icebergs loomed, impossibly beautiful blinding of white, interlaced with ice-blue veins. Had a giant hand with a giant brush expertly swirled cobalt blue paint on these ice canvasses?
Snap, snap, snap went my camera. My fear was looking down and missing out on a millisecond of nature. For an hour and half, we circled around this wonderland. Barren and alive, the juxtaposition of eternal life and the constantly changing landscape. It was exquisite.
Flushed and trembling with adrenalin, I stepped back aboard the beautiful Vega, crew handing out steaming cups of sweet, fruit tea.
Flushed and trembling with adrenalin, I stepped back aboard the beautiful Vega, crew handing out steaming cups of sweet, fruit tea.
Stripping off my outerwear, I announced to everyone within ear shot that that was the best experience of my life. And it this was all I would see and do while in Antarctica, then I was supremely satisfied.
How wrong I was.
First landing on the Icy Continent
After a delicious lunch, an announcement was made that we’d be making a landing. I will actually be stepping foot on Antarctic ‘soil’ an island called Useful Island, home to a huge colony of Gentoo penguins.
I WAS GOING TO SEE PENGUINS UP CLOSE!
Back down to Base Camp, suited up, back aboard a zodiac and off to see these impossibly cute birds.
There are very strict rules – no touching wildlife, stay 5m away, do not walk through ‘penguin highways’ and no sitting or putting bags on the snow/ice/land.
Yesterday, the crew methodically vacuumed all clothing to ensure no seeds or foreign matter would be transported to these very highly protected and fragile ecosystems. Nothing can be taken on land expect for the backpacks and drink bottles Swan Hellenic provide. No food, no smoking.
The smell of Penguin Poo assaulted my nose. It was pungent and smelled of dead krill, which is exactly what these absurdly cute birds eat. Gentoo penguins squawked and screeched, gathering in groups on the rocks. Paying no heed to the teal-jacketed humans, they resembled tiny waiters in resplendent tuxedos. Was I living in a documentary?
Stepping on land, I walked along the path which was clearly marked earlier by the expedition crew. I could hardly believe I was walking in SNOW! My very first time. How many firsts had I crossed off in just a few hours! I can proudly say I only fell once, giggling at myself as the penguins trudged up in front on me along their highway, their funny gait and uncoordinated waddling reminded of my own unco stride.
Hundreds of photos, videos, selfies – the privilege of being among the wildlife was incredible. I was a little sad to head back onto the ship, but at the same time, feeling full to the brim with gratitude.
A rare sighting
For the next two hours, the orca frolicked and danced alongside Vega, putting on a priceless show of pure poetry. Hours later, the crew informed us that this display of orca was not only very rare but one of the best they’d ever witnessed. And, I was here.
The Passage Through Paradise
As expedition cruising relies heavily on the weather, it’s rather exciting not knowing what you’ll see next.
Vega slowed down, and the distant icebergs suddenly appeared closer than before. We entered this sheltered passage, and this stunning stretch certainly lived up to its name, Paradise. Every time I thought I’d seen the most beautiful iceberg, another appeared, taking my breath away.
It’s hard to describe the tranquillity, the peace, and the awe.
I finally put my camera down. Now it was time to absorb, reflect and drink in this moment as nothing I could ever imagine could ever compare.
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