Serenity in the Sanctuary - Emerald Harmony

By Cruising With Honey - 11:48

Emerald Harmony - Majestic Mekong - Day 5
Tam Nong Bird Sanctuary

How's the Serenity?

Nature has a way of recharging my mind, body and spirit. When I’m immersed in such beauty, I can’t help but marvel in creation; a reminder that everything is connected.

Floating through Tam Nong Bird Sanctuary in Tram Chim National Park was a far cry from the bustling streets of Vietnam, and taking a deep breath, I fell into an almost meditative state, lulled by the gentle movement of the small boat.

Today’s excursion was a DiscoverMore option offered by Emerald Harmony, in other words not included in the fare, but it was well worth paying the cost (about $125). Each boat had about 8 passengers, in addition to a tour guide. Slowly, the boat made its way through narrow waterways as our guide pointed out wildlife on either side.

The rich biodiversity was wonderful to see and there were so many different types of birds including sarus cranes, grey-headed lapwings and Asian openbill storks. I even spotted two water buffalo, lazily hanging out near the canal. Bright pink lotus and waterlily jutted from the canals and lush greenery created the perfect backdrop to the whole scene.

For those few hours discovering Tam Nong Bird Sanctuary, I was completely blissed out and was grateful to have seen so many rare birds in their untouched environment.

River Relaxing

Lunch, a little nap and then Emerald Harmony cast off, heading further downstream toward My An Hung. Guests clambered back aboard the trusty sampans to head to the local village. For the first time since embarking on this Mekong river cruise, I decided to forego the EmeraldPlus excursion and stayed aboard.

As most guests had headed off to climb monkey bridges and learn about village life, the ship as virtually empty. Over to the Lotus Lounge (at the front of the ship) I perused the books on the shelves, leafing through interesting stories of the lands we were visiting. Settling in a comfy chair, I grabbed some tea and enjoyed being in the moment.

French Inspiration

Dinner came quickly, and the ship was in full swing again. Have I mentioned how delicious the food has been? Tonight, was French Influence Dinner, and it seems like Head Chef revels in outdoing himself every, single, day. Duck, asparagus Soup, marbled sirloin, stuffed aubergines… the selections were exquisite.

Satisfied and a little merry from the free-flowing wine at dinner, I skipped movie night on the top deck to retire to my lovely cabin. As usual, tomorrow’s schedule was waiting on my bed, and I realised we’d be visiting the wet markets in Sa Dec in the morning. I love visiting markets during my travels and I couldn’t wait to be surrounded by the sights and smells of fresh produce.

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Good morning Vietnam - Emerald Harmony

By Cruising With Honey - 19:14

Welcome to Vietnam - Emerald Harmony, Day 4

River cruising moved at a different pace to ocean cruising. Aboard Emerald harmony, the experience on board is tranquil, and guests are treated to warm Asian hospitality, delicious food and luxurious amenities.

The last few days onboard have been a combination of immersive cultural excursions and utter pampering. Nothing is too much for the crew who greet you at mealtimes as if you were a long-let friend, greet you back on board after a hot day in the Cambodian sun with a refreshing towel and drink and clean the cabin twice daily, mopping the floors to ensure not a speck of dust is to be seen.

And, every night, a special gift which reflects the places we’d visited that day. These are the special touches that elevate the Emerald cruise experience.

Last night, after returning from the second EmeraldPlus (included) excursion of the day at the Royal Palace, the crew had set up the top deck for a special treat, an Aspara Dance performance by the Cambodian Student and Children’s Organisation. It was a beautiful show and very entertaining.

Setting Sail to Vietnam

Emerald Harmony crossed the border after breakfast, and soon after docked in Tan Chau. Sampans – traditional Vietnamese boats – pulled up alongside to transfer guest to visit a fish farm.

The beautiful timber boats were a wonderful way to cruise along the Mekong, with our first to at a floating fish farm. Be warned, the smell of the fish food was overpowering but nevertheless it was interesting to see a working farm.

And then, it was time to take a ride in rickshaw – in my opinion the most fun excursion of the whole cruise thus far. As the driver peddled through the streets of Tan Chau, I waved furiously at the locals who were going about their daily lives.

Street food vendors, school children and French-inspired architecture whizzed by as I admired the town. It was a far cry from the chaotic streets of Phnom Penh.

Colours, Colours Everywhere

I’ve been in a lot of places of worship, hundreds perhaps, but never had I visited a place like Cao Dai Temple. Cao Dai is a relatively new religion created in the 1920s by Vietnamese spiritualists who drew upon, and added to, ideas from the four most influential religious philosophies in Vietnam: Buddhism, Daoism, Confucianism, and Christianity.

The bright pastels filled every space in the temples. Statutes, murals, stain glass windows – it was hard not to be overwhelmed by the sheer volume of colours. I didn’t quite understand what I was seeing or what any of it meant, but at the crux of this religion lies family values and peace. The massive eye symbolising their god, the creator, was a little disconcerting, if I am to be honest.

Evergreen Island

Back on the Sampan and off to a farming village on Evergreen Island. As its name suggests, it’s a lush area with numerous small farms where local families till the land. We walked past crops of vegetables and fruits our way to visit a family who was welcoming us into their home.

The children were excited to see foreign visitors, the mother gracious with her time, explaining to our eager ears what every-day life is like on the island. It was confronting to find out she worked from dawn to dusk to eke out a living, earning about $8USD a day. Its moments like these that puts my life into perspective and to remember to be grateful for the life I lead.

Keeping the Traditions Alive

But the day had not ended yet. Lunch on board and back out on the lovely sampans once again, this time to visit Long Khan Island where the age-old tradition of scarf weaving was still going strong.

As a huge fan of both scarves and textiles, I was in my element seeing how a multi-generational family was still creating these masterful pieces by hand. By the way, each scarf was only $3USD!

Lion Dancing in the Decks

While I had enjoyed yet another jam-packed day of cultural excursions, heading back aboard Emerald Harmony felt like coming home. Except in this ‘home’ my dinner was waiting for me, my cabin was impeccable and entertainment was even included.

Heading up to the Sun Deck, chairs had been set-up once again, this time for a traditional Vietnamese Lion Dance. High energy and loads of fun, I clapped and cheered along with the other guests as the dancers performed acrobatics and stunts.

It was Gala night and a great opportunity to glam up. The dress code aboard Emerald Harmony is very relaxed, but who doesn’t like to dress up dinner? That night we feasted on a specially curated menu that was simply delicious.

Actually, every meal so far had been fabulous and I begged Head Chef Jaya numerous time for his recipes. I suppose he has to keep some secrets close to his chest, otherwise what would be the point of me returning on board (which I gladly would in a heartbeat) if only to be spoilt by his culinary prowess?

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The Killing Fields - Cambodia

By Cruising With Honey - 15:50

Trigger warning: Please be aware this post contains images of the remains of the victims of the genocide in Cambodia. Images contain mass graves and clothing of the victims and the cells in S21 prison. I grappled deeply with taking and sharing these images and writing this blog post, but I was encouraged to share this experience by our Cambodian tour guide in an effort to educate, acknowledge and respect the 3 million Cambodians who died under the Pol Pot regime.

Remembering the Genocide in Cambodia

Discovering the world is a joyful, exhilarating and an enriching experience.

It can also be heart-wrenching and can almost make you lose faith in humanity. Visiting the Killing Fields embodied the worst of all human traits; the lust for power and the evil ramifications it produces.

My goal with documenting today’s visit to the Killing Fields and Tuol Long S-21 museum, is not to give a history lesson of the Pol Pot regime and the subsequent genocide of the Cambodian people ( you can research in your own time), but to share openly and vulnerably the impact travel can have.

It’s not all sunshine and rainbows and cocktails; travel is a gift that opens one’s eyes to places and moments in time that should not be forgotten. We cannot move forward or evolve as a civilisation without appreciating what we have, and unfortunately, the life we live today has come at the expense of those who suffered and died at the hands of other humans.

This is why travel is so important. It’s an opportunity to get out of our cosy bubble and really connect with people who aren’t all that different to you and I.

The Killing Fields

The sheer atrocity of what occurred in this calm, green field rattled my core. I love nature as it symbolises the embodiment of creation. Yet here, tens of thousands of humans were tortured and maliciously murdered, their blood seeping into the very soil that produces life. The cruel juxtaposition was almost too much to bear, and yet I must press on, for to turn away and protect my weak sensibilities was not an option.

Walking along the wooden paths erected on and around the mass graves was unbearable. Knowing clothing, bones and teeth were still being unearthed was horrendous.

Normally, I adore trees, but when I came upon the ‘Killing Tree’ that was used to bash children’s heads against – much more economical for the Khmer Rouge than wasting a bullet – a hatred erupted from deep within, and I wanted to uproot that tree with my bare hands.

A memorial housing rows upon rows of human skulls nearly tipped me over the edge as I read the description of how each person this skull belonged to was killed. I left a lotus flower, said a prayer and promised them that they were not forgotten.

Tuol Seng

Utterly emotional spent, I didn’t want to go to the genocide museum at Tuol Seng. A former school, the buildings showed the faces of the victims. Staring into the eyes of these black and white portraits, I grappled with the fact that these innocent people were catalogued in some kind of macabre badge of honour by their murders.

Men, women, children all with terrified and vacant eyes, looking back at me, pleading for help. I imagined this was probably the first and only time they’d had their photo taken, and instead of smiling for the camera, they sat and suffered this inhumane ordeal that sealed their fate.

We toured the cells where prisoners were shackled in 1m x 1m areas, looked up at the barbed wire that was installed on the outside of the buildings to prevent hopeless prisoners end their own life and saw the gallows in the courtyard.

I cried buckets of tears, as one word rattled around my confused brain, Why? For what? For power, an ideal, greed? It is incomprehensible a human of flesh and bone could do this to another of the same make up.

As hard as it was for me, I could not imagine the collective pain and trauma of the Cambodian people. The pain, the loss and the heartache are tangible and make up the tapestry of the psyche of the population today - and will continue for generations in the future.

May the horrors never be repeated and that the Cambodian people find strength to move forward and heal, and possibly, in time, forgive.

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Emerald Harmony - Chanting Monks and Cambodian Nights

By Cruising With Honey - 14:04

Majestic Mekong - Day 2 on Emerald Harmony

A Monk's Blessing

One of the biggest privileges afforded by travel is being welcomed by a culture with the hope you’ll leave knowing just a little bit more about a community, a people, then when you arrived. This sharing of life is ultimately what the human experience is all about, and the reason we long to explore the world.

Day 2 aboard Emerald Harmony, and I had settled in to my cabin and the rhythm of this beautiful ship. The first excursion on his Majestic Mekong cruise was to Oudong, the former capital of Phnom Penh. The Emerald Harmony was ported at Prek Kdam, about a half hour coach trip, so it was an early start for the EmeraldPlus (included) shore excursion.

Arriving at the Vipassana Dhurak Buddhist Centre, I marvelled at the architecture in the grounds. We were asked to be mindful that this was a sanctuary where monks and nuns lived, and to dress modestly, covering our shoulders and knees. It was a steaming hot day, so a long cotton scarf did the trick.

Buddhist monk blessing in Cambodia with lotus flowers

As I entered the first temple, I was taken aback by the sheer size of the Buddha. Saffron clad monks prayed as I was walked on the cool marble floor, admiring the intricate artwork adoring the walls.

Our tour guide ushered us to sit in front of two monks, their serene faces instilled a stillness and peace. Quietly, the two men started chanting in and ancient language, only used by Buddhist monks. They took turns, sometimes overlapping in their hypnotic cadence in Pali, (the language of the Buddhist scripture and based on Sanskrit). As this blessing concluded, lotus petals were tossed over us and I’d like to think that with each petal that landed on my head, I was given an extra special blessing.

On we walked through the complex, stopping to snap pictures with nuns and monks, who all exuded a peaceful, fulfilled disposition. From a Western perspective, one might see poverty. I, however, saw contentment.

Buddhist monk preparing food in Cambodia

In an under covered area, food was being prepared. People were busy preparing meals for the monks and nuns who would arrive at midday to partake in their only meal of the day. If you were to look up the meaning of community, this would be the perfect illustration. The meals are provided by local Buddhists who come to the complex to show their gratitude and give their offerings.

A chime sounded, and on cue, a stream of monks and young student monks, filed in. It was a beautiful moment to witness as they walked calmly with their bowls to accept their gift of food. Watching the procession was a moment to reflect on gratitude and to understand that without this generosity, these monks would not eat.

I was not aware that in Buddhism, there are nuns as well as monks. These mostly elderly women live that live at the complex very simply, in small one-bedroom structures. It was confronting to see how they live, especially as many were so very old and frail. I wished they were in much more comfortable surroundings being looked after in their twilight years. However, it was blessing that these nuns did have shelter and food, as the majority had no-one, and this community was all the family they had.

My heart broke hearing the stories of them losing every member of their family to the Khmer Rouge. Parents, siblings, children; the Pol Pot regime was ruthless and committed an atrocious genocide in Cambodia in the 1970s. I suppose these nuns were just grateful to be alive. Material wealth pales in comparison to life.

Sailing On The Mekong

The beauty of an early start is having a long break back on board to recharge. Lunch, lounging and having some cool refreshments recharged the energy zapped by the heat and soon the Emerald Harmony was sailing way downstream. WE WERE CRUISING THE MEKONG.

After a few hours sailing – it was so tranquil – the ship arrived in Phnom Penh, just in time for the second included shore excursion of the day. Stepping off in the humid night air, a fleet of Remorques (similar to a Tuk Tuk but is a carriage that is attached to a motorbike whereas a Tuk Tuk is an auto-rickshaw) were lined up at the dock.

Jumping aboard with my bestie Nurse JoJo, the driver sped off, joining the cavalcade on an exhilarating ride through the hectic, chaotic night life of Phnom Penh. We giggled and laughed as we were jostled in the back of the carriage, waving at the people enjoying the bustling evening.

Back on board, the beautiful crew set up an open on the top deck. The service on Emerald Harmony is exceptional.

Crew members aboard Emerald Harmony on Mekong

It had been a big day, and the comfort of sleeping in my beautiful cabin was very much welcomed. I needed my sleep as tomorrow we’d be heading to the Killing Fields, and I knew it would be a very confronting experience.

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Serenity in the Sanctuary - Emerald Harmony

Emerald Harmony - Majestic Mekong - Day 5
Tam Nong Bird Sanctuary

How's the Serenity?

River Relaxing

French Inspiration

Good morning Vietnam - Emerald Harmony